Appellations & winemaking / FIELD NOTES

Tokaji Aszú / Eszencia

Aszú and Eszencia: tracing the steps for extracting sugar

Even starting with the same berries, extraction and fermentation can follow different paths.

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Aszú: returning concentrated berries to the process

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  1. Select aszú berries concentrated by botrytis, etc.

  2. Soaking selected grape berries in juice, fermenting must, wine, and so on.

  3. Distinguish between the process of using concentrated fruit and the stage where sugar is fermented.

  4. Check both vessel and period of aging. Do not assume a wine is fortified just because it is sweet.

Organizing typical processes. Check the detailed conditions for sorting, maceration, fermentation, and aging against producer information and documentation for the vintage in question. To the supporting reference ↓

FIELD NOTE 01

Select individual berries

Grapes for Aszú are concentrated by botrytis and drying. At Disznókő, workers repeatedly patrol the vineyard, picking out suitable grapes one by one. Since whole bunches are not all ready at the same time, the harvest unit is very important.

It is a process of judging by weather and berry condition, and the same quantity cannot be obtained every year. It’s not sufficient to think that if there is noble rot, the fruit material will automatically be high quality.

FIELD NOTE 02

Pressing after maceration

Concentrated berries are soaked in juice, fermenting must, or new wine to extract sugars and compounds, then pressed and moved to fermentation and maturation. At Disznókő, their public winemaking process uses must or new wine for soaking, with the decision made for each lot.

This differs from ports where fermentation is stopped by fortification. Instead of focusing first on sweetness as a result, illustrate and compare the processes of concentrating and macerating the base ingredients.

FIELD NOTE 03

Essenzia takes a different path

Eszencia uses highly concentrated juice that flows out under the weight of gathered berries. The sugar concentration is extremely high, resulting in very slow fermentation. This is not the same process as soaking the berries as for Aszú.

Do not assume the sugar or alcohol levels published by a producer apply as fixed values to all Eszencia. Individual technical documents are examples to detail the production process.

FIELD NOTE 04

Re-read the old puttonyos indication.

The official Tokay explanation states that since 2013, Aszú must have at least 120g/L residual sugar and 6 puttonyos is displayed for 150g/L or more. Don’t use the old 3- and 4-puttonyos scale directly as the minimum for present-day Aszú.

Do not confuse the historic Aszú Eszencia and Eszencia. By recording label name, harvest year and the applicable period together, you can reduce misreading of older bottles.

Key points of this article

This is not a method based on fortification. The process is traced from selection of concentrated berries, maceration, and pressing.

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Is Aszú a wine in which sugar is retained by fortification?

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This is not a method based on fortification. The process is traced from selection of concentrated berries, maceration, and pressing.

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Courses related to this question

Furmint: comparing dry harvest and Aszú berry selection →

Hárslevelű: Reading Tokaj aromas and late harvest →

Disznókő: Interpreting Sweetness from Fruit Selection →

Sources and reference materials

These are the reference materials for the main text. For details of production regulations, consult the current documents. For individual wine specifications, refer to materials for the relevant vintage.

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